T.I.C. - This Is China

T.I.C. is my study abroad program’s latest catchphrase. It stands for “This Is China”. It originated after watching “Blood Diamond” (a GREAT movie that I highly recommend) on the long bus ride back from our spring break trip to Shanxi province. There is one scene during the movie when one of the characters, a South African diamond smuggler played by Leonardo DiCaprio is talking to another character, an American journalist played by Jennifer Connelly, and makes the remark, “T.I.A. – This Is Africa”, a phrase he uses to explain the harsh reality that is Africa, specifically the diamond trade. Well, by changing the A to a C, this acronym can easily be used to sum up China’s many idiosyncrasies. Seriously, there’s really no other way to explain the people doing aerobics outside of Worker’s Stadium in Beijing at midnight, or the fireworks that have been going off 24/7 for the past two weeks, or the funny English translations of signs, or the profusion of tacky Christmas decorations through March in a typically unreligious country, or the seemingly widespread lack of what we Americans like to call common courtesy – I could go on and on. There’s many a time where I’ve found myself muttering “T.I.C.” under my breath, as it’s the only way I’m able to explain whatever odd sight I’ve seen or strange situation I find myself in. I also use it in an attempt to keep my frustrations with Chinese culture to a minimum.

The subway is probably where I find myself most frustrated with Chinese culture. Beijing’s subway system is actually much cleaner and efficient than I had initially expected. However, it is also extremely crowded, usually reeks of body odor and bad breath, and it is on the subway and in the subway station that you experience some of the worst manners Beijing has to offer (granted, I will admit that this lack of manners is probably just Chinese culture in general, and I probably sound like some kind of arrogant American snob, and certainly people in the West are not perfect, but it can be quite irritating for someone who has always been accustomed to at least some common courtesy). If there is one thing that grosses me out the most in China so far (besides the bathrooms), it is the spitting. Everywhere you go (and I mean EVERYWHERE), you will hear people clearing their throats as loudly and conspicuously as possible before emitting into the air a huge wad of spit. Lovely, I know. So I was taking the subway back to Beida from the LA Times office one day, sitting there, reading the China Daily, minding my own business, when this woman holding a bag sits down next to me. I soon found out, much to my horror, that she was using this bag as something to spit in, as you’re not allowed to spit on the floor of the subway. Every couple of minutes or so, she would clear her throat and spit. I was lucky enough to deal with it all the way to my stop. Would you believe that it was so crowded I couldn’t even get up to move? Every time she spit, I would think to myself “T.I.C.”. Another time, I was standing near the subway doors when the guy squashed against the doors next to me was incessantly clearing his throat, getting ready for his grand exit from the subway car when he could de-board and spit like a camel into a subway station trashcan. The entire time, I thought to myself – you guessed it – “T.I.C.”.

Even the government realizes Beijing has a spitting problem, and they’re trying to get rid of it before the Olympics! Check out this China Daily article...http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/2008/2007-02/08/content_804333.htm

Another thing that I find funny about the Beijing subway is that you get to see the transformation of a normally tranquil people into a frantic mob. Honestly, I’ve never seen anything like it. People will be milling about the subway platform, reading the newspaper, talking on their cell phone, listening to music, when suddenly, the train arrives and chaos ensues as the subway doors open and there is a mad rush to find a seat. I’ve seen old women elbowed out of the way by greedy young adults scuttling to find a seat even though they’ll probably get off at the next stop. In DC I would get dirty looks if I even dared enter the metro car before everyone getting off the train had exited. Not so in Beijing. For those few seconds that the subway doors are open, you would think that these peoples’ livelihoods depended on getting a seat. You can see the red in their eyes as they show no mercy in ramming through young children, the elderly, the sick, and anyone else who gets in their way. It’s crazy. Then the doors close and everything is back to normal until the next stop when the process starts all over again. T.I.C.!

I guess the main reason why T.I.C. is such a great phrase is because most of the time, it’s really the only way to explicate certain things we’ve experienced in China. It’s a way to help soothe the culture shock. There are many times when I find myself uncomfortable, grossed out, frustrated, and yearning for the comforts of America like no other – and it’s during these times that it helps to remind myself, T.I.C. – This is China. It’s polluted, crowded, rough, unmannerly, and completely overrun by the government, but this is China, and right now all I can really do is deal with it. To be honest, despite all of China’s short-comings, this has proven to be one of the greatest experiences of my entire life, and I wouldn’t trade it for anything. I’m so glad I chose to test my limits by going to such a distant, curious place. In fact, no longer do I have the same desire that I once had to go to some of the more typically frequented areas such as Western Europe or the Caribbean. No, now I want to see some of the world’s more intriguing places – more of Asia, Russia, the Middle East, South America, Africa. One of my friends told me that once you have an experience like this, you get addicted. Well, I think I’m getting addicted. But in the meantime, I think I’ll just try to make it through the next two months in China!

Here are some examples of times when all you can say is..."T.I.C.!":